TRIP INTRODUCTION
The highest of these peaks, marked Chulu West on the trekking maps, has a recorded altitude from at least two expeditions of nearer 6400m; this might more accurately be called Chulu Central. As a result many climbing parties have mistakenly climbed one of these peaks thinking it to be Chulu East or West. It usually understood that with the permit to climb the East or West peak an attempt can be made to the nearby peak as well.
Chulu West peak is part of the Manang Himal, which is quite rightly included in the larger Damodar Himal, the eastern limit of which runs south from Chako and Peak 6687 in a north-to-south direction along the Hunlung Khola, Nar Khola and Phu Khola. To the south it is bounded by the Marsyangdi Khola and the Mesokanta La. There exists considerable confusion with regard to the name and location of the Chulu peaks and what summit actually constitutes Chulu West and Chulu East, since it is soon becomes apparent to anyone that has climbed in the range that several other summits close by, which are actually part of the Chulu massif, are not indicated on present maps of the area. For the sake of clarification, four summits can be included in the Chulu group, two of which are possible on the permit for Chulu West and two on the Chulu East permit. What is apparent is that the available trekking map is highly misleading.
A climb of one or both of these peaks combined with Nepal's most famous Around the Annapurna trek make up for one of the most spectacular Himalayan trekking and climbing outings.
Chulu West Route:
The obvious approach to this peak diverges from the main trail to the Thorung La pass past the village of Manang and Base Camp is established in a small valley to the North. From base camp the route follows a subsidiary North-West ridge that leads up to the main peak. An attempt to the peak and return has be done in a single day as setting camp up on the slope above base camp is not easy.
Itinerary
DAY 1 Arrival to Kathmandu & Transfer to the Hotel (1,350m)
Day 2 Drive from Kathmandu to Nga Di via Besishahar (760m)
Day 3 Trek from Nga Di to Syange (1,100m)
Day 4 Trek from Syange to Tal (1,700m)
Day 5 bTrek from Tal to Timang (2,270m)
Day 6 Trek from Timang to Lower Pisang (3,150m)
Day 7 Trek from Pisang to Manang (3,540m)
Day 8 Acclimatization in Manang
(rest day)
Day 9 Trek from Manang to Ledar (4,200m)
Day 10 Trek from Ledar to Chulu West Basecamp (4,900m)
Day 11 Hike from Basecamp to Chulu West High Camp (5,600m)
Day 12 Climb from High Camp to Summit (6,419m) and descend to the Basecamp
Day 13 Trek from Chulu West Basecamp to Manang (3,540m)
Day 14 Trek from Manang to Chame (2,670m)
Day 15 Trek from Chame to Besi Shashar
Day 16 Drive from Besi Shahar to Kathmandu & transfer to the Hotel
Day 17 Sightseeing around Kathmandu valley
Day 18 Transfer to the International Airport for final departure
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Cost Includes
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Arrival & Departure: Airport - Hotel transfers – Airport (Pick Up and Drop).
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Hotel Accommodation in Kathmandu: 3 nights hotel (3-star category) in Kathmandu on bed & breakfast Basis- Sharing Twin Bed Room.
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Welcome Dinner: One Welcome Dinner in tourist standard restaurant in Kathmandu with Office’s Staffs.
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Permit: Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal Mountaineering Association to climb Chulu Peak, TIMS Card, Annapurna conservation area entry permit & fee.
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Insurance: Medical & Emergency rescue Insurance for all involved Nepalese staffs during the trek and climbing.
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Map: Trekking and climbing map.
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Member transportation: Drive from Kathmandu – Nga Di. While returning Drive from Chame to Kathmandu, as per itinerary.
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Climbing Stuffs Transportation: Necessary all equipment Transportation for all Members and Staffs from Kathmandu to Nga di (Drive) and to Base camp (by Porters / Mule) – While returning: Base camp to Chame (by porters / Mule) and Chame to Kathmandu (Drive).
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Member Luggage: Up to 30 Kg per member for personal baggage during the trek carrying by porter or Mule.
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Food and Lodging:3 meals a day (BLD; including tea and coffee) along with accessible accommodation at Hotel/Lodge/Tea house/Camp during the trek and at the basecamp. Well-managed base camp set up for member & Staffs.
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Drinking: 2 liters boiled water to carry on thermos per day per member.
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All Necessary equipment for Camping during the trek.
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Porter: Porters Per Member up to Base camp from Nga di & Porters return from Base camp to Chame.
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Base Camp Staff: Experienced and well-trained Base Camp Cook & kitchen Helpers if required.
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Staff Salary and allowance: All Nepalese staffs & porter’s daily wages, equipment, food & clothing.
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Base Camp Tent: Each member will have individual tent in Base Camp.
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Base Camp equipment: All camping equipment such as Dining tent with table and chairs, Kitchen Tent, Toilet Tent, & all necessary cooking gears *if required.
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Light: Lights at necessary tents. *if required.
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Climbing Sherpa: Veteran and Government Licensed Climbing Guide.
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Climbing Sherpa Salary & Allowance: Climbing Sherpa Salary, Equipment, Food and Clothing.
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Oxygen Bottle (O2): Oxygen bottles will be in stock at base camp in case of an emergency (with appropriate charge).
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Oxygen Mask & Regulator: 1 Set of Summit Oxygen mask will be in base camp in case of an emergency.
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High camp service in Needed: Necessary cooking gas, cooking pot for member, high altitude tent (sharing basis), high food for all member, climbing and cooking crew. Group climbing gears, fixed and dynamic rope during the climbing period as required.
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Walkie-Talkie: Walkie –Talkie for communicating from Base Camp to Mountain and Mountain to Base Camp.
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Permit: Satellite Phone / walkie-talkie permit for all members and staffs.
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Comprehensive Medical kit for group.
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Valley Sightseeing: Sight-seeing in Kathmandu Valley [Swoyambu (Monkey temple) and Kathmandu Durbar Square] by professional guide.
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Guide: Government licensed Guide (English speaking) during the trek and sight-seeing in Kathmandu valley.
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Certificate: Chulu West Peak climbing certificate issued by Nepal Mountaineering Association (after climbing Chulu West Peak successfully).
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Cost Excludes
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Air Fare: International flight airfare (from and to Kathmandu).
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Nepal entry Visa fee: Nepali Visa fee US$ 40 per person for 30 days (to be applied for 60 days (USD$ 100).
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Lunch & Dinner: Lunch & dinner in during the stay in Kathmandu (also in case of early return from Trekking / Expedition than the scheduled itinerary).
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Extra night in Kathmandu: Extra nights’ accommodation in Kathmandu. In case of early arrival or late departure, early return from Trekking / Expedition (due to any reason) than the scheduled itinerary.
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Insurance: Travel and high-altitude insurance, accident, medical & emergency evacuation.
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Rescue Evacuation: Medical Insurance and emergency rescue evacuation cost if required. (Rescue, Repatriation, Medication, Medical Tests and Hospitalization costs.)
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Personal Expenses: Telephone Calls, Internet, Toiletries, battery recharge, hot shower, laundry, soft drinks, beers and any Alcoholic beverages.
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Personal Equipment: Clothing, Packing Items or Bags, Personal Medical Kit, Personal Trekking /Climbing Gears.
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Toiletries: Soaps, shampoos, toilet and tissue papers, toothpaste, and other items used to keep yourself clean.
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Filming: Special Filming, Camera and Drone permit fee.
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Internet Service: Internet facility is not included.
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Summit Bonus: Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa.
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Tips: Tips for Basecamp staffs.
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Extra Porter:$25 USD per day for each extra porter (in demand of extra porter).
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Extra: Any other services or activities, which are not mentioned in the itinerary.
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Any other item not listed in “Cost Includes” Section.
Trip Fact
Duration:18 Days
Country:Nepal
Max. Altitude:6,419m / 21,060ft.
Walking Per Day:5 - 6 Hours
Nature:Hotel + Lodge + Camping
Best Season:Spring / Autumn
Group Size:2 - 15 People
Essential Personal Climbing Gear:
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Alpine Climbing Harness: Alpine Climbing Harness should be light and simple in design, easy to put on and take off with gloves on, with positively foolproof locking features.
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Crampons: Crampons must fit boots perfectly; steel crampons with anti-balling and ability to toe point positively and safely into ice.
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Ice axe: Ice axe should be versatile light general purpose ice climbing axe not too aggressive.
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Ascender: Ascender or Jamar, a mechanical device used for ascending on a rope; must be suitable to be used with gloves or mittens.
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Multi-LED Head Lamp: Multi-LED Head Lamp and spare batteries are essential items, we do not recommend single bulb lights due to its low reliability and a single point of failure.
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Karabiners: Minimum 2 locking carabineers, 1 large and 1 small and 4 regular.
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Rappel device: Figure 8, ACT or similar; be familiar with Munter Hitch as it may safe your life if you loose your Rappel device and you will at some stage
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Ski poles: Very handy for the approach; adjustable types are the best and are recommended type
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Slings: One 3m (10ft) and three 2m (6ft).
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Masks, hoses, and regulators: Good quality for your safety.
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Altimeter :
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Climbing helmet: Climbing helmet is essential safety gear for crossing areas under rocks and ice cliffs; light weight is an essential feature
Clothing
For under garments we recommend Merino Wool from Icebreaker because the company understands climbers and mountaineers needs and utilises the best quality material in the world. No other company can at this stage match Icebreaker quality. The quality in extreme conditions is essential for your comfort and safety. Merino wool is the finest wool and it matches cotton with softness and polypropylene with insulation and breath-ability because it takes moisture away from the body and keeps you dry and warm. Due to its natural nano-tube construction it has antibacterial properties, so it stays usable for much longer. It is slightly more expensive then polypropylene so is climbing and trekking.
Upper Body:
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One T-shirt Icebreaker Merino 150 or lightweight 200.
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Two long Icebreaker Merino 150 or lightweight 200 shirts.
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One polar fleece pullovers, medium weight.
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One polar fleece jacket.
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One Gore-Tex waterproof and breathable jacket with large hood to accommodate climbing helmet.
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Lightweight down jacket for chilly days in base camp or warm layer when stopping for short breaks.
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One very warm goose-down (duvet) jacket with hood or a down/duvet suit if you prefer, for high altitude use.
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Note: Your clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks, bin-liners, or large plastic bags.
Hands:
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One pair lightweight poly-liner gloves. These will be worn when tying knots, but not inside your mitts
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One pair mittens, consists of 1 Goretex over mitt matched with the very warm polar fleece mitt liner
Head
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Warm hat wool or synthetic that covers your ears
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Balaclava
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Scarf or neck sleeve
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Face mask
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Ball cap or brimmed sun cap
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Glacier Sunglass with side shields
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One pair ski goggles (optional with light and dark lens)
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Bandana or head scarf, useful for dusty conditions
Lower Body:
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Icebreaker Merino 150 underwear briefs
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One pair walking shorts
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One pair walking trousers for trekking and around camp
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Two pair Icebreaker Merino 150 or lightweight 200 thermal bottoms
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One pair Icebreaker Merino 200 weight thermal bottoms
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One pair polar fleece trousers
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One pair Gore-Tex trousers or bibs. Waterproof/breathable with full side zips
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One pair of Goose-down (duvet) trousers or bibs. You may prefer a down (duvet)
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Note: Your clothing should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks, bin-liners, or large plastic bags.
Feet:
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One pair One-Sport Millet Everest Overboots or equivalent (with Aveolite liners; good quality plastic shells with inner boots; avoid tight fit with heavy socks.)
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One pair sturdy leather or synthetic (Gortex) hiking boots with good ankle support for the walk to advanced base camp
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One pair cross-trainers, running shoes and/or sandals for Kathmandu and in camp
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One pair down booties (optional)
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Two pair med-heavy poly or wool socks
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Two Pair of liner socks. Polypropylene or wool
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Vapour barrier liner socks or plastic bread-bags
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Two pair lightweight trekking socks, poly or wool
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Light Icebreaker Merino wool or cotton socks for in town.
Rucksacks and Travel Bags:
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One medium rucksack (50-70 litters / 3000-4500 cubic inches, can be used for airplane carry).
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Two large (120 L / 7500 cubic inch) duffle kit bags for clothing and equipment. Must be durable for use on pack animals.
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Small padlocks for duffel kit bags.
Sleeping Gear:
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For high altitude, one down (duvet) sleeping bag (rated to –35 C (-30 F). In the high camp, you can sleep in your down (duvet) clothing inside your sleeping bag;.
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For base camp, one additional sleeping bag (good to -20 C (-5 F).
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At least 3 closed cell foam mats for use in base camp and high altitude, which can be purchased in Kathmandu inexpensively; we do not recommend inflatable mats due to high probability of accidental puncture.
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Note: Your sleeping bags should be kept dry using waterproof stuff sacks, bin-liners, or large plas
Personal Hygiene:
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Personal hygiene supplies;
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Two tubes lip sun cream, 1 large tube skin sun cream (min. factor 30);
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Anti-mosquito cream;
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One toothpaste/brush set;
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One bar soap or hand sanitizer gel/1 small synthetic towel;
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Hand wipes.
Medical Supplies:
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Note: Small personal first-aid kit. (Simple and Light) Aspirin, first-aid tape, plasters (band-aids), personal medications, etc. The leaders will have extensive first-aid kits,
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Personal prescription medications. Please let your leader know about any medical issues before the climb.
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One skin blister repair kit.
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medications are inexpensive and readily available in Kathmandu with no doctor's prescription;.
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One small bottle of anti-diarrhea pills (Imodium).
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One small bottle of anti-headache pills.
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One small bottle cough and/or cold medicine.
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One course antibiotics for stomach infection, available locally at chemist shop or pharmacy with no doctor's prescription.
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One course antibiotics for chest infection, available locally at chemist shop or pharmacy with no doctor's prescription.
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One small bottle anti-altitude sickness pills: Diamox, Acetylzolamide. For more about this medication, please contact us.
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Do not bring sleeping pills. They are a respiratory depressant non compatible with high altitude physiology.
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One small bottle of water purification tablets or water filter.
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Earplugs.
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Extra prescription glasses/contact lens. Contact lens wearers, please bring glasses in case of emergency.
Personal Food
Our skilful cooks will prepare 3 delicious hot meals and plenty of drinks each day in base camp, as well as in camp 2 on the mountain. This meals will consist of soup, local cheese & sausage, biscuits, dried noodles, potatoes, rice, porridge, butter, dried and tinned vegetables, fruit, meats, and fish, tea with milk and sugar, powdered juice drink, and drinking chocolate. Our Sherpas will be carrying this food to the higher camps.
We ask only members to bring 5 dehydrated meals (freeze-dried dinners) for their summit attempt. On summit day you will be at high elevation and you will be affected by the altitude with very limited appetite and for period so it is important to have flavours you most likely will consume.
We cannot cater for specific personal and uncommon foods and flavours. If you have any unusual, non-standard or specific personal, cultural or religious dietary requirements, which can only be satisfied with imported product, we ask you to bring your own imported daily snack and energy foods.
We do not provide “snack” food such as chocolate or "energy-bars". We ask that you bring or buy your own "snack" or daily cold energy food in Kathmandu or in home country. From our experience 3-6 kilos/6-12 pounds is a sufficient amount. A growing variety of imported foods such as European and American cheeses, chocolates, biscuits, cookies, nuts, and locally made power-bars are now available in Kathmandu, at realistic prices. However, imported brands of power bars, GU, re-hydration drinks, dehydrated food, "freeze-dried meals", imported cheese and sausage may not be available. If you want these items, you must bring them from your home country. Many of our members, especially Britons, Europeans, and Australians with tiny baggage allowances, now purchase their daily snacks in Kathmandu. Our schedule in Kathmandu allows sufficient time for shopping.
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Miscellaneous Practical Items:
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1 small roll of repair tape, 1 sewing repair kit;
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1 cigarette lighter, 1 small box matches;
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1 compass or GPS;
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1 battery powered alarm clock/watch;
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1 digital camera with extra cards and extra batteries;
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Nylon stuff sacks for food and gear storage, large Ziplocs are also useful;
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3 Water bottles (1 litre) wide-mouth Nalgene (1 is a pee bottle)
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1 plastic cup and spoon;
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1 small folding knife;
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Binoculars (optional);
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4 large, waterproof, disposable rubbish sacks;
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Passport, 2 extra passport photos, flight ticket, flight itinerary;
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Separate photocopies of passport and relevant visa pages, proof of insurance;
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dollars, pounds or euros cash for purchasing Nepalese visa at Kathmandu airport, Tibet visa, for paying for restaurants and hotels, for gratuities, snacks, and to purchase your own drinks and gifts;
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Credit cards, Bank/ATM/Cash machine cards for use for withdrawing funds from cash machines (bring a photocopy of your cards), traveler's checks, etc.
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1 bathing suit/swimming costume (you never know);
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Base camp entertainment. It is good to bring additional items which you have found to be useful on previous expeditions. For example: paperback books, playing cards, ipod mp3 player, short-wave radio, game boys, musical instruments, ear plugs, lots of batteries, etc.;
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travel clothes for base camp and in town;
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Please be sure and bring your patience and try to keep an open, relaxed, positive and friendly attitude as travelling in this part of the world may be very different than what you are used to, but things always seem to fall into place at the last moment.
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Note: This is not an exhaustive list. Please submit other equipment concerns and suggestions.
Oxygen
On Everest, although some climbers wish to try to summit it without supplemental oxygen, most of members would prefer to have oxygen available. We only allow members to climb Everest with the supplemental oxygen available. How much oxygen one requires is an individual decision; some people want 1 bottle, others want 12; our only requirement is that every expedition team member must have at least one oxygen bottle available for personal use, which will constitute at the minimum an emergency supply for climber to get down to at least camp 4. Our experience indicates five oxygen bottles is usually a sufficient for average climber. All of the equipment is guaranteed to work well together, and it is easy to use, with simple threaded and snap-on fittings which require no tools. We have a 40% buy back policy on unused oxygen bottles, and masks, hoses, and regulators in good condition.
Note: You may have to carry some or all of your own oxygen on summit day, as well as up and down the mountain. If possible, the groups sherpas will help stock the high camps, as well as share in carrying extra bottles during summit attempts. If you are concerned you might not be able to carry your own oxygen, you may wish to hire a personal sherpa.
Fitness requirements
Fitness requirements
If you want to climb Everest, you're going to have to be in extremely good physical shape. Basic fitness training should start well in advance, at the minimum of 12 month with main emphasis on cardiovascular training, assuming you are an amateur athlete and you are fit for strenuous athletic exercises. The main reason for your cardiovascular training is to increase your heart-lung oxygen capacity, so you can deliver sufficient amount of oxygen to your muscular and brain tissue in extremely low partial oxygen pressure. Acclimatization to high altitude is both a function of cardiovascular capacity as well as your personal physiology adaptation capacity, which you will only find out, when you above 8000m. Small percentage of people no matter how fit they are at sea level will not be able to adapt to high altitude, generally however the fitter you are the better your body will be able to cope with the altitude.
Altitude Hazards and Complications
The primary concern of mountaineers as altitude increases is the partial oxygen pressure decrease. There is a fine balance of pressure between your internal oxygen pressure in your lungs and the outside world, which allows your lungs to absorb the oxygen and deliver it to your blood stream, it is called partial oxygen pressure. With the altitude the outside pressure drops, while the internal pressure remains constant and at about 9000m you will not be able to absorb any oxygen at all with predictable outcome despite the amount of oxygen in the air is the same. Our system has evolved at the sea level, where it functions perfectly and it doesn’t at high elevation. The human body has however phenomenal ability to adapt given appropriate conditioning and time, it is called acclimatization.
Low levels of oxygen in the blood can cause number of conditions such as Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), which is easily treatable and reversible condition but it can lead to more serious conditions such as High Altitude Celebral Edeme (HACE) and High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE). Low level of blood oxygen can lead to the body thermal inefficiencies causing frostbites and hypothermia.
Other condition caused by the effects of high altitude is thrombosis or embolism.
At high elevation due to lower UV absorption by the atmosphere and reflections from the snow there is high risk of sunburn.
The other hazards include broken bones due to falls, avalanche, ice fall or rock fall.
Note:All the Equipment list is normally for big expedition During Mera peak climb we need less then this but Safety is first so climbers need to know what Equipment do we need to climb Above 6 thousand meters...to make sure and choose for Chulu west peak climb necessary Equipment..